01
Sealcoating
The routine maintenance that keeps good asphalt good.
What it is
A liquid coating, usually refined coal tar or asphalt emulsion mixed with sand and additives, spread over the whole surface. It fills the fine pores in aging asphalt and forms a barrier between the pavement and everything that breaks it down.
Signs you need it
- Surface has faded from black to gray
- Loose stones or a rough, sandy texture
- Water soaks in instead of beading
- Oil and gas stains
- Fine hairline cracks starting to show
How often
- New asphalt: wait until it has cured, typically 6 to 12 months
- After that: generally every 2 to 3 years
- Heavy use or full sun may need it sooner
What it protects against
- UV rays that dry asphalt out and make it brittle
- Rain and snowmelt soaking into the base
- Oil, gas and road salt
After we leave
- Stay off it on foot for about a day
- Keep cars off for about 48 hours
- Caution tape stays up until it's ready
02
Crack Filling
Small cracks are cheap to seal. Ignored, they turn into potholes.
What it is
Cracks are cleaned out (weeds, dirt and loose material removed) and filled with a flexible rubberized filler that bonds to the edges and moves with the pavement as it expands and contracts with the seasons.
Signs you need it
- Cracks wider than about 1/4 inch
- Grass or weeds growing out of cracks
- Cracks along the edges of the drive
- Old filler that has pulled away
Why it matters
- Water in a crack freezes, expands and widens it every winter
- Water reaching the stone base softens it and causes sinking
- One season can turn a crack into a pothole
Best timing
Fill cracks before sealcoating, so the whole surface is sealed in one go. Spring and fall are ideal for crack work, when cracks are open moderately wide. Spider-web or "alligator" cracking is a different problem: it usually means the base underneath has failed, and that area needs patching rather than filling.
03
Pothole & Patch Repair
When a section is past saving, rebuild just that section.
What it is
The damaged area is cut back to solid edges, loose material and failed base removed, and new hot asphalt placed and compacted. The result is a clean, square repair that ties into the existing pavement instead of a lump of cold patch that pops out by spring.
Signs you need it
- Potholes or missing chunks
- Alligator cracking (a web of connected cracks)
- Sunken spots or dips that hold water
- Crumbling edges or garage aprons
Common spots
- Where the drive meets the street
- In front of the garage door
- Low spots where water collects
- Where trucks or trailers park
Patch or replace?
If damage is limited to a few areas and the rest of the driveway is sound, patching is the smart, affordable fix, and a sealcoat afterward blends it all together. If most of the surface is breaking up, patching becomes a losing game and it's time to talk about repaving.
04
Lots & Commercial
The same protection, scaled up for parking lots and shared drives.
What it includes
Crack sealing across the lot, pothole and patch repair, sealcoating and line striping, done in sections where needed so the property can stay open. A well-kept lot looks better to customers and costs far less over time than an early repave.
Signs you need it
- Long cracks running across drive lanes
- Faded, gray surface and dull striping
- Potholes near entrances and dumpsters
- Standing water after rain
Planning it
- Work can be scheduled for slower days or hours
- Sections are taped off and reopened as they cure
- Plan crack sealing every year or two, sealcoat every few
- Restripe after sealcoating
05
Line Striping
Clear lines keep a lot safe, organized and looking cared for.
What it is
Painting the markings that make a lot work: parking stalls, arrows and directional markings, crosswalks, fire lanes, loading zones and accessible (handicap) spaces. We do all types of parking lot striping.
Signs you need it
- Lines faded or hard to see, especially at night or in rain
- Drivers parking crooked or across two spaces
- Missing arrows or crosswalks
- Accessible spaces that are worn or unclear
When to do it
- Right after sealcoating, since fresh sealer covers the old lines
- When lines have faded, often every year or two on busy lots
- When you change the layout of the lot
06
Paving & Resurfacing
Not our main line of work, but we'll tell you if you need it, and where to go.
Resurfacing (overlay)
A new layer of asphalt, typically about 1.5 to 2 inches, laid over the old surface. Works when the base is still solid but the top is worn out and widely cracked.
Full replacement
Tearing out the old driveway, rebuilding the stone base and paving new. Needed when the base has failed: widespread alligator cracking, sinking and drainage problems.
Signs it's time
- Cracking and breakup across most of the surface, not just a few spots
- The driveway is roughly 20 to 30 years old and has had little maintenance
- Repeated patches keep failing
- Water drains toward the house or pools across the drive
We focus on sealcoating and repair. If your driveway is past that point, we'll say so honestly and point you to a paving contractor. Once it's paved, we can keep it protected.
Ask us
